Magical Cornwall, UK
I first learned about Cornwall when I was living in London, a bloke told me that you could go surfing in the transparent turquoise sea and hike endlessly among tropical flowers and I thought...really? So I set out to explore tiny villages and coastal paths, stayed in hostels and took lifts with strangers. I returned this year with a different perspective and accompanied by my parents whom I knew would thrive on the magic.
Mousehole
Enchanted indeed, Mousehole was the perfect hub for our Cornish adventures. My attraction to this quirky village was based on its tininess and the fact that it had a cafe and restaurant with vegan options, almond milk and all. Our rental was called “the old studio”, owned by very sweet & talented artists. We were out most of the days and enjoyed the quiet evening watching the kids jump off the gate in the small mini-port or harbor if you prefer. Our bus passed every 30 minutes and took us to Penzance or Newlyn where we connected to our daily adventures. Although I initially voted to rent a car, being re- exposed to the “unique” driving scene quickly reassured our decision to rely on the reliability and savviness of the Cornish bus system.
Lamorna & Porthcurno
Lamorna was our first hike and started from Mousehole - a challenging walk with some steep steps and cliff side paths with the most rewarding views. We encountered a plethora of wildflowers and stunning nooks. The thistle marks and landslide scrapes were well worth it once we sat down for lunch at Lamorna cove. My cornish pear cider and fresh lentil roll from hole foods cafe hit the spot.
We skipped the tropical garden (with regret) and made way for the bus stop through lush wooded area filled with songs quite foreign to my beginner birder ears. A few kindred souls picked us up en chemin and gave us a lift all the way to Porthcurno - a most picturesque beach with soft white sand and refreshing bathing waters for quick dips in up to 18 Celcius ocean. We ended the day walking through Minack Theater and taking the open top bus back home. Cornwall is adorned with mystical legends and unexplained rock formations. Getting a glimpse of the merry maidens was a nice surprise.
Perranuthnoe & Marazion
The next day I headed to Perranuthnoe to hike to Prussia Cove. The beach was divine and served by yet another lovely cafe. I sat on a bench and chatted with what seamed to be local birders or Twitchers in their words. They had walked to Prussia the day before and it would seam that the path was too prickly with thistle. They convinced me to take the Marazion direction instead. The coastal hike was lovely and I took the opportunity to swim in the calm waters, warmish, shallow and clear - a few jellyfish here and there but very little weeds or any other creatures. You can walk or swim to Mount St Micheal and stare endlessly at the sea of love.
Zennor and St Yves
The roughness of hike #1 and warnings re hike #2 made me weary about my plans for the next day. I hiked St Yves to Zennor on my first trip many years ago and could not find any notes on its current state online. I stumbled on a walking application called iwalk Cornwall and found a moderate strenuous 8.6km circular walk that from to the Carracks and back through the fields past a Wicca house!
My parents hiked the first bit with me - up until a spot that I had remembered vividly well. Had forgotten about the steep climbs and descents and the views were more stunning than remembered. Many people were indeed hiking all the way through to St Yves and would recommend this over the circular route. While in Zennor, make sure to visit the mermaid bench in the chapel and have a treat at the old chapel cafe/inn. St-Yves is a lovely town with a mini version of the Tate gallery. The coastline that lies between these two is the most beautiful place on earth.
Sennen Beach
Riding under the sun with the wind playing with my hair while breathing in fresh country air and taking in majestic views was part of the trill with the open top coaster bus! I got off at Land’s end this journey, skipped the fanfare at this most historical point and walked to Sennen Cove Beach (3 miles). This coastal village offers a few shops, a lovely gallery (Cornwall is a haven for artists) and a surf school - yes, you can surf in Cornwall. This beach is the most dreamy in my books, quiet with shallow ocean that runs for about a mile stretch. There is only one way in - quickly with determination, surely you will find it refreshing.
Newquay
The morning we left Mousehole was very sad indeed - could have easily spent a month in this rest stop. Having taken the longer but very scenic train ride from London to Penzance on the way there, I chose to fly back through NewQuay to maximize my time under the Cornish Sun.
Left my luggage at the tourist office and walked the tricky shore line to Watergate Bay (4 miles). I remember Newquay for its Run For The Sun festival - flooded with Volkswagens and Surf Paparazzi. This time around it looks more like a busier town with longer beaches and bigger waves. I capped my adventure enjoying the view with a glass of Chardonnay at the lovely Watergate boutique/design hotel. Could do this again, again and again...
Thrilled with this adventure’s realness and relative quietness. Cornwall remains to be an undiscovered gem in my books. Will need to go back and do Lizard Point next time. Perhaps someone can open a seaside yurt park with a vegan café?
