Immersed in Israel!
I once had a friendly neighbour who ranted and raved about Israel. Isaac would talk about his long winter escapes on a Kibbutz, the warm sea & delicious food. A 10 to 11 hour direct flight from Montreal with Air Canada sealed the deal - Hello Tel Aviv & Jerusalem!
It was my first time in the Middle East and I must say that part of me was excited and the other part somewhat anxious. The latter was heightened upon arrival at passport control:
Did I know anyone in Israel? No.
Why was I visiting? To learn, experience something new.
Why was I traveling alone? - Why not?
The woman agent paused as she was taken aback, then nodded in agreement and proceeded in asking to see my hotel confirmation…
Magical Bus Ride
Taking a shuttle or taxi to the airport is quite expensive and the train takes you on the edge of the city where you need to transfer to a bus or taxi. The best option from a $ and enviro point of view was a 30 min ride on the 445 bus which comes every hour- the smiley driver and stickers, amazing music and front window display made for a much better welcome! O - and the airport terminal is surrounded with green grapefruit trees.
Shuk it Up!
My immersion continued with a visit to the Carmel Shuk - a five min walk from my hotel! Friday before 2pm is perfect to experience the market at its peak. The amount of people including screaming hagglers, street food (stuffed pitas of all kinds) - juices, variety of fruit, colorful pastries, hole in the wall cafes, artsy flocks among Israelis and world travelers contributed to the most eclectic vibe I have ever witnessed. If crowds and chaos are not your thing, there are several mini markets throughout the city, whether in old Jaffa or the pedestrian quarters - but if you want the real deal you just gotta jump in!
Feel the Beat
My next adventure lead me to walk along the boardwalk to Old Jaffa. I savored a pistachio and coconut gelato at the port and returned via the Yemenite quarters, Florentin and Neve Tzedek areas. Explored the corridors to discover little boutiques, cafes and vibrant painted doors. Music was almost constantly in the air - whether a group of people singing and dancing, playing behind a piano bar, or calling out prayer time! It was hot but not unbearable and I was thrilled beyond belief!
Rest & Relaxation
Since a big part of the population in Tel Aviv is Jewish, Saturday is devoted to Shabbat - and many businesses are closed. I took advantage of the hotel bikes to stroll through HaYarkon park and discovered culture and nature at its best. Egrets, a blue heron, king fisher, parrots, a shimmering white-throated kingfisher and two Egyptian ducks! Also witnessed how Israelis embrace exercise (biking, jogging, outdoor gym and line dancing in their own style)! Biking to the park allows you to scope out the quieter northern beaches and stop for delicious juices at the many markets and stalls along the ways. Kale, ginger, date and home made almond milk did more than the trick, and the ripe sweet smelling star fruit was the cherry on top! Spent the remainder of the day enjoying the warm soothing sea!
Vegan +
Did you know that Tel Aviv is the Vegan Capital of the world? It is relatively easy to find vegetarian dishes and there are plenty vegan resto options. If anything you could stick with juicing. Keto is another story since bread and fruits kind of take over menus. My experience at Zakaim was sublime with a stuffed vegan ricotta eggplant tomato dish and vodka, Persian lemon, mint and sage drink! The excitement may have caused me to forget my jacket - guess what? The owners took great care of dropping it at my hotel the next day as they were closed for the holidays! Kind people do exist and more vegans please.
The Holiest
I chose to explore Jerusalem with a guide and Abraham tours exceeded my expectations in every way. Amir Kasher took us to all the hot spots while taking great care to bypass the hoards of visitors and omitting political bias. We even got to see the temple mount which is quite rare given that one never knows when it opens or closes. A few highlights were chatting with an Armenian coffee shop owner who had a sign which he translated as evoking a sentiment on what was happening in Turkey: “The world loves to watch but does not speak up”. Another highlight was the top view of the old city - this gives you a perspective of the different belief systems and styles- Orthodox, Christian, Muslim, French, Danish, Roman... Seeing an Ethiopian alter was a first for me and so was experiencing such a variety of beliefs in such a perimeter. I touched the wailing wall and Jesus’ grave within 30 minutes. The visit ended with the infamous food market. There were hoards of people getting ready for the Sukkot which started that night. Star gazing huts were ready for delicious food and challah bread! I went for a falafel stuffed with humus, tomatoes, spicy sauce and fries just like i like it. The falafel balls were bright green fresh on the inside and although not a first - the best ever....truly....holy!
Thank Goodness
Today is thanksgiving Monday in Canada and am feeling specially grateful for this adventure and for having met Isaac - a kindred wise soul who had an inspiring sense of openness that is rare to find today. Kind of what you might say about Tel Aviv:)
