Hiking The Best of Corfu!
I've experienced day excursions and love joining groups of birdwatchers, yet I never spent more than a day with a group dedicated to hiking. Casual hiking is my usual thing, and when I checked my timing with the proposed itinerary, there was a slight gap… Contacted the G Adventures team to let them know my pace and bought everything on the list, including water pills, rain pants, and waterproof hiking boots, plus added a few more precautions, like a mosquito jacket. I was eager to learn about the flora and fauna and soak in Corfu's magnificent scenery while challenging myself regarding the number of steps and inclinations.
After arriving in Corfu town following a week of beach exploration with one of my best friends (read about it here), I headed straight to my hotel. Our guide left a note asking to meet at 6pm, where we would get a briefing and could go for dinner afterward. I was mentally prepared to accept the 3-star hotel, for which I paid a supplement to get my own room. The view, among other things, was disappointing, and there was no other option, reminding me why I usually avoid all-inclusive organized trips. Trying to stay positive, I said adieu to my friend and was off to meet my new team.
They were in the lobby - I glanced around and was surprised by the age diversity. I was expecting 18-35-year-olds (based on G Adventures’ profile), yet I stood amongst what looked like 25 to 70. A pair of sparkling eyes greeted me and said, "Hello, my name is Spyridoula; I am your group leader". I later googled her name and found that this Greek name traditionally represents “a woman who cares a lot about others. She is usually quite optimistic about life, and she is a giver and a reliable person”. This could not have been more true.
Apart from our youthful and caring leader, there was a couple from Portland, two long-time friends from Wogawoga, Australia, five ladies who met in a church group from Buffalo, NY, a young lady from Scotland and her Cornish friend (both living in London), another young lady from London, and two solo ladies, one from British Columbia and the other from Ireland. Different personalities from all parts of the world with a binding force – what seemed to be a sense of adventure and personal goals, which were revealed along the way.
Following our short introductions, we went to Taverna Marina, the same restaurant my friend had suggested for lunch earlier that day. Having tasted the feta and fig, I opted for their famous eggplant dish paired with a glass of local white wine – I felt more than satisfied. The briefing for the first hike was that it would be the most challenging, lots of uphill – "bring your shoes that have the most traction -bring lots of water, snacks and no need for lunch we would be stopping," said our kind guide.
I wore my hiking boots and brought two bottles of water and two grapefruits, thinking one before lunch and the other after, if needed… (I love grapefruit!)
The hike was a challenge for everyone in the group, a few abandoned within the first hour as the steep ascent was crazy... Most continued in the blazing heat with kind words of encouragement from our guide. “Slowly, Slowly”, “Drink Water”, “Almost There”... became our mantras. The landscape interchanged between rocky terrain and enchanting forests of ancient eucalyptus trees. I picked a few of the different aromas along the way, including oregano, thyme and lavender. I placed them behind my ears as an added aromatherapy incentive. We passed fig and pomegranate trees and towering Cyprus, and I munched on a few wild blackberries. We learned that the gigantic lantern-like poisonous flowers were called Angel's trumpets and how the Island changed ownership many times, with the British bringing the most valuable infrastructure, including introducing an aqueduct. The hike followed the aqueduct, and we saw some of the structures.
The halfway mark was a peaceful monastery with plenty of fruit trees. I helped myself to a delicious fresh fig and imagined tasting the cherries as they were not in season. The good news was that it was downhill from there, with a little climb at the end. The bad news was that we still had a ways to go. The hiking sticks I rented from the guide for 20 Euros helped enormously. We reached our final destination around 4 pm, a lovely Taverna where I tasted zucchini balls and stuffed green peppers with local white wine to polish things off. Upon our return, I took a quick shower and headed out to get my lunch, yes lunch, as I learnt the hard way that snacks were equivalent to lunch in Greece and that my two grapefruits clearly would not suffice for the next day. I explored the winding magnetic streets of Corfu town with its active nightlight, delicious restaurants, cute ceramic shops and local splendour. Now I knew the drill...
The following days were a breeze compared to day 1. We hiked from Gianades to Lakones and sampled treats and liqueurs at Vasilakis & Sons Distillery. Then, we walked from Angelcastro and ended at the beautiful views of Afionas. Our last day was changed as the northern region of Pantokrator and the village of Old Pertnthia were ravaged by fire. Our guide brought us south of the Island, where we hiked from the Arkoudila path and through the Monastery of the Blessed Virgin.
We did more olive forest terrain and coastal paths -and swam in twin beaches, and my fav from the previous week, Rovinia. We took a fun boat ride to Porto Timoni, explored a Byzantine castle, and headed south of the Island to have the entire beach to ourselves.
We had a day off midweek, which I chose to spend alone - and I loved it. After deciding to bypass the crowded boat going to Paxos and the overpriced masseria tour, I jumped on the green bus and arrived at Barbati Beach in less than 15 minutes and 3 Euros. I followed my nose, landed at an oasis with luxurious chairs and drinks, and swam endlessly in the clear turquoise sea. My dreamy day was topped with a sumptuous meal at Salto restaurant (Grilled Halloumi and Stuffed Peppers) and a fine selection of Greek Wines.
On the last day, Spyridoula asked us about our highlights- most people mentioned the bond created in the team. I appreciated the group’s kindness, openness and thirst for adventure. Nevertheless, I was most inspired by the stunning scenes, the dreamy swims, the lush vegetation, the heavenly scents, bird chants, the physical challenges and our leader's ability to create a binding thread among the diversity. I could keep up with the group’s tightly monitored pace - thanks again to Spyridoula - and stayed in the back most of the time to enjoy a bit more introspection.
Would I do this again? Perhaps, but maybe with a hiking tour designed for artists or nature enthusiasts, including a boutique hotel, lessons in botany and fauna with historical notations and pauses for bird watching, meditation, contemplation and local gourmet snacks (Opportunity for G Adventures sub-brand?). In any case, I do want to return to Corfu as it is a mecca for natural wonders and wellness.
Traveler Notes
Restaurants, Bakeries and Gelaterias
Bougainvillea (Corfu Town)
Papagiorgis Patiserie-Gelateria (Corfu Town)
Starenio Bakery (Corfu Town)
Marina's Taverna
G Adventures Corfu Trail Hiking Highlights Notes
Day 1: Apple Health recorded 23.8 km – 93 flights climbed (Guide recorded 12.4km with 623m ascent)
Day 2: Apple Health recorded 23.8 km – 68 flights climbed ( Guide recorded 12.4km with 407m ascent)
Day 4: Apple Health recorded 18.6km – 140 flights climbed (Guides app recorded 10.1 km and 251ascent)
Day 5: Apple Health recorded 19.9km – 74 flights climbed
G Adventures rates Corfu Trail Hiking as a 3 difficulty level; the team would agree with me that it could be a 4. Although the distance and height are clearly indicated in the itinerary, more details need to be added, such as terrain type and the fact that the tour ends with a late lunch in a delicious Taverna. Also, the consensus is that the City Marina Hotel was unacceptable. I would only recommend you take this tour if this hotel is optional. The guide was fantastic, so if Spyridoula leads, you are in good hands. Lastly, I chose the beginning of October to escape the heat, but it was still boiling; bring your swimwear, sunhat and a lot of water. By the way, I did not need the mosquito jacket, Avon's skin so soft wipes with icarin worked perfectly fine. We saw a few solo hikers, and the paths are highly well-marked. I would have felt comfortable doing this with a few friends; at the same time, something is reassuring in having an expert guide arranging everything and caring for your safety; the driver and van were also excellent.
