Corfu Beach Scene
Many people asked me: Why Corfu? And many others asked: "Where is Corfu?". I chose this Greek island based on its reputation of being a naturalists' haven. Iconized by the British TV series The Durrells and its depiction of the life of Gerald Durrell. I pictured lush forests, afternoon baths in a glorious sea and delicious Greek hospitality. Stumbling upon an organized hiking trip add-on sealed the deal.
I enlisted one of my best friends to join me since we enjoy exploring secluded wild beaches. Corfu has a reputation for being extremely crowded in the summer. Hence, the shoulder season seemed wise. Our research further demonstrated the threat of forest fires, excruciating jellyfish stings, mosquito and wasp infestations and the probability of torrential rainfall. Nevertheless, we went all in and committed to flights for the first week of October.
We chose Kassiopi, a little town northeast of Corfu, for our base. Our lodging (See the Sea) was ideally located with sea views, delicious aromas of night flowers, lush trees and beautiful flora. I negotiated with Corfu All Year to greet us with our car rental at the airport and then pick it up at our apartment in Kassiopi on the third evening. I made sure to purchase all the insurance available – including the mirrors. I also rented a GPS. Upon arrival, Maria had the automatic Hyundai ready for us and quickly mentioned that the car was fully insured, apart from the underneath.... – "Really?" I asked, "How will I know if something is wrong?" She replied, "You will know," and "Best to keep to the main roads." I proceeded nervously in the dark streets, having two instructions, one from the GPS and the other from Google Maps. The roads were narrow, barely lit and winding. Luckily, we did not have to stop or back out in areas where you could only fit one car, and I think it's best that you don't see the massive drops steps away from the narrow roads. I was thankful to arrive 1.5 hours later. More notes on the driving experience in the traveller tips; let's switch to something more positive– the beaches!
DAY 1: Rovina, La Grotta Bar, Paleokastritsa Monastery
Our first beach was our favourite, and luckily, I got to return with my hiking group. The drive was pretty good up until we got off the main road. I remembered reading to park your car as high as possible, and as we got closer to the beach, I understood why the steep and rocky descent was not worth it. Being the shoulder season, parking was not an issue; it was, in fact, the only beach where we paid 3 euros for parking. We then proceeded with a short hike to finally reveal the spectacular beauty! There were just a few people, and the water was the perfect shade of transparent turquoise. A snack boat offered sandwiches, chips, water, soft drinks and beer. Not the same level of snacks and comfort as found at the lidos in Puglia, but the seclusion was appreciated and brought me back to memories of Sardinia and Kythira. The smooth, pebbled beach was strangely comfortable, and the water was divine. We became accustomed to the sea bream (white fish) and quickly found strategies to ward them off as they were prone to peck at swimmers annoyingly. No sign of jellyfish, we floated, swam and snorkelled to our heart's content.
We then drove to La Grotta Bar, where steep stairs took us to a bar perched perfectly on the cliff by the sea. The bar was no longer serving food and although the view was beautiful, the menu lacked lustre. We needed a meal, and sunset was fast approaching; we shifted towards the Paleokastritsa Monastery and were both charmed by its rich history and enchanting vibes. The sunset was magical, and the Greek salad and relaxed mood at the Monastre restaurant made for a perfect ending.
DAY 2: CANAL D’AMOUR/ CAPE DRASTIS/ ACHARAVI/ Alexandros Taverna
The following day, we set out for Canal d'Amour, which had a reputation for having the most beautiful waters. We were disappointed by tiny and less pristine beaches, crowds of tourists and drones invading our space. A beautiful shade of blue, the water was chalky – filled with the minerals from the surrounding rocks. I was reticent to swim out too far, partly because of my fear of jellyfish but secondly, because the current was quite strong that day. My friend had to be rescued as she approached the other side of the boulder-shaped cliff. We quickly said, next!
We headed to Cape Drastis, which required us to hike 45 minutes there and back in arid conditions. It was good exercise, and the views were magical. We contemplated jumping into the sea when we arrived at the bottom. There is no beach, but you can jump off rocks. A young man had just gotten out of the water and pointed to a mark on his leg. It was clearly a jellyfish bite, and even though he wasn't in pain and we were pretty hot and sweaty, we said, next!
Desperate to cool off, we headed to Acharavi, a long sandy beach with crystal clear, warm, salty waters. We relaxed on abandoned chairs from what looked like an empty resort until we got kicked out by the groundskeeper– oups.
We ended our day at Alexandros Taverna for a traditional meal surrounded by cats. Yes, cats. I understood with the following nights that having cats propped under your table or at your feet is perfectly normal in Corfu, and it is considered acceptable for guests to feed them.
DAY 3: GIALI/ MIRTIOTISSA / ERMONES | PELEKAS VILLAGE
It was the last day with the car, and I looked forward to relaxing more. We headed to get a glimpse at a beach that involved a challenging hike with ropes. We trekked 45 min to get to the viewpoint, which was not worth the effort in my opinion –nor the road conditions.... The next stop was Mirtiotissa, which is known as Corfu's second most beautiful beach. As with the others, it involved parking on top of a steep hill and a short hike downwards, this time, to discover a missed detail: it is also a famous nudist beach (no pictures allowed, sorry). Naked bodies could not stop us from taking a refreshing dip before we headed out, determined to swim at the beach we could not reach by foot Giali. We caught a dreamy water taxi from Ermones for 20 Euros each, and as we got to the glistening shore, we heard a young lady screaming in pain, splashing towards us. I shared some of my lidocaine as the bite was beyond the first stages and quickly surveyed other beachgoers on the status of sightings. Sadly, Nadia and I were back on the boat in no time as we dreaded any stringing encounters. We contented ourselves with a swim on Ermones, which was quite lovely. It is considered one of the best sandy beaches in Corfu, with clear waters and not a jellyfish in sight. We dined at a restaurant in a hilltop restaurant in Pelekas village with a magical view and serenading birds. We found a gas station to fill up on our way back with more critical learnings to contribute to our travel savviness.
DAY 4, 5 & 6: MPATARIA
So the car was returned in one piece, and now I could relax seriously. We ventured to explore the beach, 5 minutes' walking distance from our apartment. Mpataria was the most enchanting beach of them all. It was big enough to accommodate a small number of locals and visitors. There were beach chairs and a few restaurants with toilets within 2 min walking distance. The water was soothing and calm, with no jellyfish in sight. The surface was filled with smooth, rounded pebbles that quickly took the shape of your body; although we did get a few bruises, the overall feeling was quite pleasant. Mostly sunny, with a few shady spots. The next few days were filled with meditation, reading, and drawing, with lunch breaks at home and ending in Kassiopi's diverse restaurants.
MPataria Beach Scene Drawing @nadiauppal
Kassiopi is a vacationy town, filled with primarily British expats. It offers a different vibe than Corfu town and other villages. We felt safe walking throughout the day and evening, and I would have been perfectly comfortable travelling solo for those of you who are curious.
We took the green bus back to Corfu Town on the last day. Over lunch, we toasted our marvellous beach getaway with a delicious glass of local white wine. I was gearing myself to the unknowns, awaiting the second half of my journey and my quest to discover the secrets of Corfu.
TRAVELER TIPS
Weather in October
Temperatures were in the high 20s (Celcius) every day, and we did not see a single drop of rain on the first week of October 2023. The sea was sometimes slightly nippy initially, but we quickly adapted. We could stay for hours from morning to sunset.
Should you rent a car in Corfu?
I would skip the car rental option; it is not worth the stress of driving. The green bus is convenient and reliable. Otherwise, you can hire a car for excursions. If you rent a car, ask about the bottom of the car insurance before booking, drive slowly, and stop at the random red lights on the side of the mountains. Trust the GPS over Google or Apple Maps to stay on the main roads. Make sure you do not have a fear of heights. You may need to use cash at the gas station, so have small bills handy. Remember to enter the correct pump number corresponding to your fuel type and keep your receipt if you need a refund. Look closely; it may be in a hidden slot. Ideally, you negotiate to return the car without filling it! I booked with Maria at Corfu All Year.
Meals
The cost of meals was comparable to what you would find in Canada. You will find traditional Greek dishes with vegan and vegetarian options and fast food. When in doubt, hit the most traditional and oldest Taverna.
Kassiopi had many restaurant options; from what I read and experienced, they are all quite good. My most memorable experience was at the Old School Taverna. I had better meals in Corfu Town and at the Tavernas visited at the end of my hiking adventure on the second week. Read about these here. Taste the local wine, coffees, ginger beer, and liqueurs; they are pretty delicious.
Where to stay
I could not recommend See the Sea more. Call Viky at +306972422731 or find her place on Airbnb or booking.com. She will delight you with clean apartments (daily cleaning) and a few personal touches. Perfect for couples, friends and solo travellers.
Cats
Cats were everywhere on the island and were prepared to be approached on the streets and at restaurants. If you are allergic, this may be an issue.
Good to pack
Water shoes help you get in and out of the sea, especially on rocky shores.
A scuba mask is excellent for snorkelling and witnessing under the sea!
Running shoes are handy to get up and down the rocky and sometimes steep paths that bring you to the beaches.
Bring lots of sunscreens, bug spray (Avon skin is so soft with icarin wipes), a hat, a beach towel, good reads, a few swimsuits and reusable containers to keep you happy at the beach.
Good to know
The green bus starts from Corfu Town, which is also an excellent option for a home base.
Sadly, the island has no drinkable running water - you must purchase bottled water.
The island has been inflicted with Jellyfish infestations that come with the current and in waves of two to four years. Our host comforted me by saying she had never gotten bitten. I started following the following Facebook groups to get more information on how to deal with the situation: Jellyfish in Corfu, Corfu Dreams and Corfu Beaches.
There are no direct flights to Corfu from Canada. This year, the most economical way to travel was by flying into Heathrow or Gatwick and taking a corresponding flight. I flew Air Canada to Heathrow and took the opportunity to visit a friend in Cardiff. Flew Bristol to Cofu with Easy Jet then Aegean on the way back with a stop in Athens. All the flights were lovely.
Although this article mentions and recommends specific commercial enterprises, it was not sponsored.
