Take Me Back Camping & Cycling in Kamouraska!
I had driven past Kamouraska before, the sky was magic and the sun was slowly setting for the day over the Fleuve Saint-Laurent, otherwise known by the Mohawk’s as Kaniatarowanenneh, meaning "big waterway" and to some Quebecers it is La mer, or "the sea" as it meets the Atlantic.
We were on our way to Sebka, a campground located in Saint-André, with our bikes hanging from my friend Pata’s custom built camper van. It was my first camp & cycle soft adventure and an introduction to Vanlife.
First step: registration.
“28?” Said the attendant with wide eyes “Wow! How did you score that? It’s usually reserved for the summer.” We got lucky I guess, a last minute cancellation? We had reserved the week before as part of our impromptu getaway plan and pact for 5 summer adventures – this one in particular counted for at least 2.
We quickly set up camp and made a meal of fire grilled tofu, eggplant, potatoes and carrots. Spot #28 had a reputation for its view and we were not deceived, the scenery was so majestic that we found ourselves hosting a crowd of friendly and quiet campers at sunset. A different party started once the sun left, and we quickly retreated to escape – sorry mosqitos, even with Pata’s handy net jacket…
Woke up to many strange noises and smells during the first night, raccoons and possibly a skunk? Pata’s blueberry pancakes did the trick the next morning. I used the remnants of our dinner to make our lunch, sandwiches topped with delicious homemade hummus, and we were off on route 132!
Rode past farmer fields, cute seaside villages and blissful viewpoints. Although labeled as the “route verte”, the bike path was more like the emergency edge of a busy country road and it was worrisome at times. Mostly flat with a few good hills, and the wind factor added a bit of challenge. We biked 65km and were thrilled to return to the camp site with a glass of rosé. Pata lent me a battery run fan which helped drown out the creatures of the night as well as providing an overall cooler tent experience. Could I have lasted a third night? I think so. What about one week minus the van riding from one site to the next at an average of 80km per day on my Linus bike– maybe…. Ideally I would have a cute vintage trailer, new retirement goal?
The next day we packed up early and set out on one of the two hikes that leave from the campground. We spotted many birds on our site including a group of Cedar Waxwings, a few American Redstarts, Cat Birds, Goldfinches, Song Sparrows, White-throated Sparrows, a Swainson’s Thrush, a Red-eyed vireo, all kinds of gulls, surf scooters and we heard a loon at night. The seaside hike provided an extension of these sightings and allowed us to breathe in more fresh salty air!
Our next move was driving to la Pocatière in order to cycle la Grande Anse. It is also labeled the “route verte” but features more of an official gravel bike path away from the main road with sweeping landscapes.
The website mentions 15km of path however we found it was more like 10km, or a 20km loop. A shorter run but worth the ride! There is a regional Traveler welcome center at la Pocatière which offers useful information, restrooms and a lovely picnic area that is well worth the stop, Covid-19 measures in place and all.
The drive back to Montreal was 4 hours – we felt rested, recharged and thankful for this quick 2- night nature retreat. I need to explore more of Eastern Quebec, the people, landscape and rich history have so much to offer. Your recos are always appreciated.
PS: Next time I am aiming for spot #6.
