Ancient Olive Groves, Boutique Farm Dinners & Staying Young in South Puglia, Italy
It's a gorgeous late afternoon as I step out of my elegant apartment in Ostuni to meet Vincent, my dedicated driver for the evening provided by Masseria Il Frantoio. I am both nervous and excited, hoping that my research proves correct and that this could be the best Masseria (farmhouse) in Puglia. There is a lot to choose from, but only a few are organic with vegan options, a review of their insta account seals the deal: this 8-course feast should be divine.
Vincent is charming and mentions that the evening will be perfect for dining under the stars. As I try to get the perfect sunset shot of the white city, I breathe in and out deeply to appreciate every moment. This would be my first Cena experience, and eating so late makes me uncomfortable; Vincent reassures me that the portions are small and easy to digest. We pass rows and rows of olive trees before entering a gate to the main house. To my great surprise, the owner greets me upon arrival and then offers a tour of the grounds in a 1949 Fiat - of course… I said YES. Camera shy Armando proceeded to an evening of storytelling beyond anything one can imagine.
Originally from Bari, Armando tells me that this is his second life, and he is not sure what will be his third. He toured the country and others searching for his dreamland - he tells me, "I arrived an old man at 40 and find myself young at 70 today". His story is a tale of passion, of finding a land that spoke to him, where the sky meets the sea, where nature thrives on a thin layer of rich soil including 1000 and 2000-year-old olive trees. He takes me through pomegranate alleys and points out the rich diversity - peaches, apricots and 15 different kinds of herbs. A cork tree, wild artichoke and asparagus, aubergine, zucchini, melons, prunes, nectarines, myrtle, wild blackberries and carob, which he claims makes the best ice cream. Everything is organic and used to delight his guests - 365 days a year. The balance of seasons, water and keeping the land undisturbed is critical. His bees sleep in the mountain in the summer and feed the ground in the winter. The lack of rain in the area (there are only 15 days of rain per year) makes the olive trees stronger and last longer – you can't find this in other regions of Italy. Armando waters them strategically to extract the best amount of quality oil.
"How did you learn the business," I asked him – Armando’s answer: "one mistake at a time." His passion for the land and for respecting its biodiversity is striking. He has a wilder area where iguanas fox and rabbits live and come out at night to clean the fields. He beams with pride when he talks about his retainer wall hand made with rocks from the land to control erosion and define the quarters. He even has a section dedicated to his employees, with a garden and a tree for all! In fact, 290 of his trees are adopted by people worldwide. As protected species, the owners contribute to keeping this magnificent biodiversity alive, plus they get a few bottles of extra virgin organic produce every year.
Apart from olive trees, the property has 500 pear trees with 5 different kinds of pears. The gardens contain a banana tree and a "Christ Orange" tree that blooms every Easter and produces fruit at Christmas.
His devotion to keeping the land "undisturbed" is striking as he shows me his one exception: "The Lost Pool" is a short walk away from the house, allowing guests to feel like they are bathing in nature.
The respect for history and nature extends to the main quarters. Armando proceeds to show me a few guest suites of his boutique farm stay; first stop, the ancient stables reconfigured in a charming two-bedroom suite with a bathroom (including tub) and sitting room. The high ceilings are typical Apulian - the decoration takes you back in time and feeds you the most authentic experience. Each suite is identified with a framed needlepoint with enchanting names - “because our guests are not numbers”, explains Armando. We venture to the main house, where I get introduced to the shared kitchen and most fascinating parlour equipped with a working gramophone and many books. "We discovered these in the basement of the house and hosted a mending party - pages and pages were washed and restored," beams Armando. We take pride in keeping the house in its original state to respect the previous owners who inhabited it for 500 years - it also added a bit of our own history. The last suite we visit has a balcony that looks onto the secret garden with orange trees and a rare albino peacock.
It is 20:00, and my friends have arrived – I pleasantly bumped into them at the airport in Montreal and invited them to join me this evening. We are treated to a glass of sparkling rosé, a traditional Olive oil process tour, and a more charming area of the house, including the chapel and shrine dedicated to Notre Dame de Lourdes. Our meal was savoured outside - there were maybe 30 guests with an assortment of tables. The below menu was adapted to my vegetarian needs. Armando passionately introduced each dish and wine as he did when describing his land. Remember that third life he mentioned? My friends were convinced his charm belonged on the big screen.
I left a few secrets behind and hope you discover them for yourself. Masseria Il Frantoio should not be missed. Ideally, you get to spend a few nights, given the experience and the ideal location, 15 min by car to Ostuni or some of the best beaches in Puglia, including Lido Morelli or the wilder shores such as Lido Santos, Lido Bizzarro, Lido Ottagono or Guna Beach. If you are curious to learn more about Puglia, may I suggest you read Solo Adventure in South Puglia: Ostuni, Otranto & Gallipoli as well as 5 Must-Sees in Puglia!
Cena del 30 Agosto, 2022
Alice – Verdeca IGT Salento – Produttori di Manduria – 2021
Pizzelle con sughetto | Fried bread pasta with tomato sauce
Boccocini di Baccalà Mandorlato con verza in agrodolce | Stockfish nuggets and almonds with sweet and sour savoy cabbage
Leccina olio extravergine biologico, 100% Leccina
Purè di fave e qualcosa in più… | Fava bean pure and a little bit more…
Tre Colline, oilio extravergine biologico Dop, 70% ogliarola salentina e 30% altre varietà varietà
Le Ricordanze, Semillon e Riesling, Passito Salento IGP, Cosimo Taurino, 2019
Morbido di Caprino allo zafferano con pere e composta di pere | Soft goats cheese with saffron, pears and pear compote*
Degli Dei olio extravergine biologico denocciolato, Cima di Melfi e Frantoio
Oltre mé – Susumaniello DOC Brindisi – Tenute Rubino – 2019
Pasta alla contadina con melanzane | Farmer’s pasta with eggplant (aubergine)
Agnello in forma con patate al rosmarino | Lamb with rocket and rosemary potatoes
Tangere Stellas, olio extravergine biologico, 100% Pecholine
Zucchine croccanti, mandorle fresche, melograno e salsina della casa | Crunchy and zesty zucchini, fresh almonds, pomegranate and home sauce
Stasera c’è un Perfetto al cioccolato… | Tonight there is a “perfect” chocolate dessert
Rosoli made with herbs from the estate gardens
*There were many favourites but I think this one had the strongest squeals of delight.
