Solo Adventure in South Puglia: Ostuni, Otranto & Gallipoli
Following my last Puglia spurt, I was determined to return and explore the best of the heel of the boot, otherwise known as the Salento region. Despite reading that you needed a car, my adventurous spirit stuck to the train + bus solo route. I chose Ostuni, Otranto and Gallipoli as my base and here is the outcome.
The adventure always starts when I leave the house and head toward the airport. Despite the drama over airport traffic and wait times last summer, I went through security like a breeze. I bumped into an old colleague at YUL while deciding what to do with my extra time. Veronica and her girlfriend were on their way to Puglia on the fly – one of the perks working for the travel industry which I miss dearly. Our Air Canada flight was delightful, and I connected from Rome to Brindisi with Ryanair. Brindisi airport was filled with vacation vibes and my intuition took me to the bus for my first destination, Ostuni.
Ostuni
Expect to find winding, maze-like cobblestone streets and alleys with steep stair options to cut across the city. The narrow sidewalks are not really luggage friendly. Better take a cab or tuk-tuk. I stayed in a typical old town home, surrounded by local nonnas, shutter doors, dark green and white, and the flower bud/pine cone ornaments called puma. The puma, honouring the pagan goddess Pomona, the deity of fruit, olives and grapes, is strategically placed on balconies and homes to ward off negativity.
I feel blessed with my travels to find apartments which allow me to truly escape and feel like I have temporarily relocated, starting over, and reinventing – all part of my journey as a creative person who thrives on learning new things. I visited Ostuni on the last days of August and the town was in full festive mode, celebrating Cavalcata di Sant’Oronzo in Ostuni which pays homage to the city's patron saint. Horses were being groomed and dressed in many alleys for a magnificent evening parade.
Exploring the white city was truly enchanting. Its inhabitants were welcoming and kind - eager to share their traditions or a simple Ciao/Bongiorno! There was a sense of elegance that I believe is only captured in person and the different tastes were out of this world. The city is filled with beautiful scenes and local treats.
The wild sandy beaches and lovely towns surrounding Ostuni are easily accessible by car and sometimes by bus. Get to the bus stop early, prepare to wait, and pray that it comes. I spent a few days lounging at Lido Morelli – For 20 Euro; I got a chair, umbrella and access to showers. You can bypass this fee by bringing your umbrella and hitting some free beaches along the coast. The water was incredible, clear turquoise, with no sign of seaweed, jellyfish or anything to look out for... Swimming was heavenly, and so were the panino sandwiches at the Lido. I will pause here and take you back to the airport; remember Veronica? To my extraordinary surprise, I bumped into her again as I was wading/meditating on my sea hammock. It was truly remarkable given that there are so many beaches to hit and few non-Italian tourists. We later met at a dinner under the stars at Masseria Il Frantoio – Read about it here.
Locorotondo & Martina Franca
Another highlight was a day trip Martina Franca and Locorotondo. I took the bus to both places from Ostuni but only recommend this to some as the return experience was quite stressful. Ideally, you can rent a car to explore Martina Franca and Locorotondo, two lovely towns to get lost in with charming architecture, churches, whimsical doors and delicious meals. I had to-die-for gnocchi at Goodo in Locorotondo.
Otranto
Next stop Otranto! I loved exploring this town and nearby beaches by bicycle. Quickly found my "spots" #calasncdimartinogianluca #lidodellastaffa @borderline_otranto and savoured every minute of the magic. Ask for their delicious traditional chicory pie, the buckwheat crust/chicory combo was a first for me!
Otranto has many day trips and activity options. I joined my two friends on a trek to Baia dei Turchi and the Grotta della Poesia. You will find a good choice of lidos at Baia dei Turchi and many places to park your car. Our lido was appreciated for sun breaks and treats like Campari Spritz and Chicory Feuilleté! I brought my water shoes but did not need to use them, contrary to the north of Puglia, all the all the beaches were smooth and sandy!
The next day, I hit a small cove that was a short bike ride from Otranto; I went with my gut and followed a dirt path that cut across a farmer's field; a short hike brought me to a dreamy beach Lido Della Staffa. You can't get a chair, umbrella or food, but you can get a bit of shade, and the water is divine. At this point, I should probably tell you that communicating was a bit of a challenge for my beginner Italian, but I managed. Nonetheless, the drawback was being unable to converse with the locals beyond the small talk. I was lucky to have grandchildren translate when available; they are learning English in school and are eager to practice.
Strongly recommend the sea kayak tour with @naturalmentesalento! The waves and caves seem a bit daunting at first, but the thrill is worth it. The sea was sparkling and clear, revealing the most beautiful shades of turquoise.
Being in Otranto in early September allowed me to witness a most moving ceremony honouring the Madonna dell'Altomare. The statue of the Virgin Mary was transported out of the church and to the pier alongside sailors and fishermen to make its way back on a boat via the sea, amongst a unique procession. This event is a tribute to the town's patron saint while paying homage to those that have died at sea and highlighting a legend involving her kidnapping during the Turkish invasion. I feel grateful to have witnessed such a beautiful and meaningful procession; the town's energy was eclectic. The musical performances and balloon and flower displays were genuinely delightful.
Gallipoli
The third destination on this September adventure was Gallipoli, which surprisingly was my favourite. I stayed in the old town Corte Moline (there is plenty of cute b&b's). I was initially disappointed because accessing nearby beaches is only feasible by car, yet, my newfound wellness routine quickly won my senses. My days started with a most delicious prima colazione, followed by random explorations through the town's maze, including beautiful churches, fruit stands, craft and produce shops. The Pucce sandwich is a local lunch favourite - mine was crammed with fresh mozzarella, sweet tomatoes, and basil. Afternoons were committed to sea bathing, and I took the opportunity to go on two boat tours with Gallipoli Sea Tours (including sea dips, Prosecco, focaccia and Italian pop hits). There is a stand on top of the stairs that lead to the beach where you can rent chairs and an umbrella and get gelato, sorbet and even a … Spritz - if you are lucky you could find a dollop of orange sorbet in your drink.
My days ended with sunset swinging/sea gazing with a Campari Spritz (much better than Aperol in my opinion) @mividagallipoli followed by delicious meals at various restaurants, including maybe my best pasta yet at l’osteria casa noschia. I found Gallipoli to be relatively quiet from what I had read and imagined, perhaps because I hit the last days of summer and being able to swim in a warm sea. A few locals mentioned that venturing outside of the old town was worth it for restaurants and bakeries. I returned to Rome on a relaxing 20-euro train ride with only one connection (@trainline was helpful throughout this trip). Flying back would have meant more connections, an earlier departure, and risk. Gallipoli is definitely on my return list, and next time I will make it a starting point as I make my way up or down the west coat - À découvrir…
Traveller tips
I used Trainline to prebook my train and bus tickets. You can make modifications if needed, and tickets can be stored in your apple wallet. I printed them just in case, but this was not needed.
I brought a water hammock, water shoes, a waterproof iPhone case and a waterproof swimming pouch - all were used and appreciated for the beach! Did not need the water shoes apart from the kayak adventure – most beaches were sandy.
The Brinsisi and Sud-Est busses were somewhat reliable and caused me to give up, time and safety are too precious when travelling solo. If you are daring, I suggest you arrive early and avoid the last option. I would do this trip again - precisely as is, but with a car - ha!
Free WiFi is non-existent in these parts, including on trenitalia or at the stations. Expect to pay 30 euros for a temp sim card in local phone stores. Ideally you get an e-sim before leaving - make sure it fits your phone model. I unsuccessfully tried getting a card at Rome's Terminal 3 or the Brindisi Airport. Luckily for maps.me, I managed to find myself around the winding roads and mazes. Google was good for bus schedules - bus stops are another ordeal, better ask around.
Everyone I met was amicable, and hardly anyone spoke English. When they said they talked a little, it usually meant very little or no.
Google translate was helpful, but travelling with an Italian will help you get more meaningful conversations.
